Physical plant

Oh, to be Michael Pollan. Great writer, and whether I agree with him or not, I feel compelled to respond. It would save me a lot of time if I actually were Michael Pollan, because then I wouldn’t be spending an hour and a pot of tea writing about his column in today’s New York Times Magazine.

The column is about climate change. Why bother changing your personal behavior, when it seems so futile? Pollan wrings his hands, and eventually counsels the concerned reader to plant a garden.

> But the act I want to talk about is growing some — even just a little — of your own food. Rip out your lawn, if you have one, and if you don’t — if you live in a high-rise, or have a yard shrouded in shade — look into getting a plot in a community garden. Measured against the Problem We Face, planting a garden sounds pretty benign, I know, but in fact it’s one of the most powerful things an individual can do — to reduce your carbon footprint, sure, but more important, to reduce your sense of dependence and dividedness: to change the cheap-energy mind.

My response to this is visceral, knee-jerk disgust. I’m not anti-gardening, although it’s about to sound like I am, but I want to think through the consequences of what he is suggesting.

Who’s in the best position to act on Pollan’s advice? People who take up a lot of space, who, as Pollan puts it, take “too many drives to the garden center.” And his suggestion to look into a community garden is specious. There’s a beautiful community garden plot five blocks from where we live, and the waiting list is enormous.

The historical echo I’m hearing in Pollan’s words is “Garden City.” Popularized by Ebenezer Howard at the turn of the 20th century, the Garden City was a design for a utopian town where families could live in relative leisure and peace, with all the benefits of urban and rural life and the drawbacks of neither. It makes for a beautiful image on the page or in the imagination. In real life, Garden Cities require lots and lots of cars. I have no argument with people who want to live in such a place, but no one would argue that they’re a model of environmental virtue.

The other modern architectural idea that would give every person access to a garden is the tower in a park. House people in elevator high-rises, but surround each building by a beautiful lawn, with a playground and community garden. There are hundreds of such developments in the US, and if you asked people what kind of place they’d like to live in, these would come in dead last: the Projects.

What does Pollan’s imaginary gardening community look like? A mix of Garden City and housing project? Subdivisions with eggplants coming out of the lawn? Pardon me if I’m not inspired by this.

I have a different vision: a place where people take up so little space that few of them have the opportunity to grow a garden, but they produce little waste and burn little fuel. With modern transportation and waste disposal, you could comfortably fit, say, 8 million people into this community and have farmers truck in organic food from nearby farms much more efficiently than if everyone had a garden. This community would be “more populous than all but eleven states; if it were granted statehood, it would rank 51st in per-capita energy use.”

I’m joking, of course. The utopian community is called New York City, and no other place in America comes close to the tiny per-capita carbon footprint of New York. Every environmentalist should read David Owen’s 2004 New Yorker article Green Manhattan:

> The average Manhattanite consumes gasoline at a rate that the country as a whole hasn’t matched since the mid-nineteen-twenties, when the most widely owned car in the United States was the Ford Model T.

Perhaps all Pollan means to suggest is that if you are concerned about the environment, have the means to grow a garden, and are not already doing so, it’s time to take the plunge. I’d suggest something different. If you are concerned about the environment and have the means to grow a garden, consider moving to a neighborhood where you have too little space to grow one.

Meanwhile, Iris and I planted two pots of cilantro last week and are eagerly waiting green sprouts. I’ll keep you posted.

Chickens these days

I got a book from the library called Sam The Cooking Guy: Just a Bunch of Recipes. The title made me laugh. Sam is Canadian (edit: I’m not sure if he’s Canadian or what, but he lives in San Diego), and the book is a little perplexing. For example:

> Ever wonder why chicken is so darned expensive to buy in the supermarket?

He’s not talking about organic or pastured chicken, as far as I can tell. Is chicken expensive in Canada or something?

Not my pick

Last time I bought toothpicks, I noticed that the package design seemed to be at least thirty years out of date, and I liked it. My thought must have caused a psychic disturbance at the Penley toothpick company, because they’ve redesigned. Check this out.

Old picks, new picks

They seem to have gone from the 60s straight to the 90s. Not an improvement. Also, I wonder how the word “count” got added to the box. Was “250 round toothpicks” unclear in focus groups? Did people expect .250 gauge toothpicks?

When you need a croissant in the morning

Iris and I had fresh-baked croissants for breakfast. Seattle is lucky enough to be home to the world-class croissants of Cafe Besalu. This morning’s croissants weren’t in the same league, but they were better than any other croissants I’ve had in town: crisp and flaky, properly leavened, deeply browned, and not stomach-churningly huge. Here’s the arduous process by which I made them:

**10pm last night:** Take croissants out of the freezer and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet.

**7am this morning:** Preheat oven to 350°F.

**7:45am:** Place pan in oven.

**8:05am:** Remove pan from oven and transfer croissants to cooling rack.

**8:15am:** Eat.

These croissants came from Trader Joe’s, in a box of eight for $4. [Here’s what they look like.](http://www.flickr.com/photos/kateford/2292581551/) They contain no weird ingredients, no margarine, no preservatives. They’re billed as “mini-croissants,” though to me they’re exactly the size a croissant should be. (I did eat a second one later in the day for purely scientific purposes, and they hold up very well, just sitting out on a plate.) This is one of the greatest convenience products ever, if you can call a product that has to be defrosted for 7 to 9 hours “convenient.” It’s as if Red Baron came out with a new line of frozen pizza comparable to [Pizzeria Bianco](http://www.pizzeriabianco.com/), or Nalley’s chili won a cookoff.

Also available, dangerously enough, in chocolate.