Monthly Archives: March 2006

Scarfer’s Index: Sushi

**Name:** Matthew Amster-Burton

**Age at first sushi exposure:** 9

**Verdict:** Hated it

**Age at subsequent sushi exposure:** 26

**Location:** Shiki Sushi

**Verdict:** Loved it

**Favorite sushi pieces:** Toro and mackerel

**Least favorite:** Uni


**Name:** Iris Amster-Burton

**Age at first sushi exposure:** 11 months

**Verdict:** An 11-month-old will eat anything

**Age at subsequent sushi exposure:** 23 months

**Verdict:** The rice was okay

**Age at most recent sushi exposure:** 2 years, 2 months

**Location:** [Blue C Sushi](http://www.bluecsushi.com/)

**Verdict:** Loved it

**Favorite item:** Cream puff

**Favorite non-dessert items:** Salmon nigiri, unagi, shrimp tempura roll, potato croquette, pickled ginger, soy sauce. And rice.

**Least favorite:** Mackerel

**Percentage of Iris’s mackerel eaten by Matthew:** 100

Bread and Jam revisited

A couple of weeks ago I asked for food-related children’s book recommendations. People came through in a big way, and I’d like to report in and tell you how Iris and I liked some of what you came up with. If I don’t mention your suggestion, it probably just means it hasn’t come in to the library yet.

* The Bake Shop Ghost. I flipped through this book and thought it might be too many words for Iris, and warned her as much. Then we read it, and afterwards she said, “That book not too long.” She likes to find the page where the ghost is eating all the cakes, if that’s not too much of a spoiler. The story is a little sentimental for me: I was sort of waiting for the new owner to say, “Get your undead ass out of my kitchen and let me get my cake on.”

* The Giant Jam Sandwich. I thought I hadn’t read this one before, but it turned out I had, as a kid. We just read it for the first time yesterday. It’s one of those books with lots of things happening on every page, so Iris sees something new every time, like, “That pink guy not dancing!”

* Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs. How could I have forgotten this one? We read it and it didn’t seem to make much of an impression, but later Iris asked for the meatball book. She likes the giant donuts with sprinkles, especially since I promised we could get donuts with sprinkles next time we go to Pike Place Market. She also thinks it’s funny when a giant noodle falls on a guy’s head. People who think kids can’t make the distinction between cartoon violence and actual violence should watch Iris burst into tears when she sees another kid bump his head but laugh like a maniac when children are crushed to death by a giant pancake.

* The big winner, by far: Irving and Muktuk: Two Bad Bears. Two muffin-crazed polar bears keep showing up at the town of Yellowtooth’s annual blueberry muffin festival, wearing various disguises and attempting to steal the muffins. I wasn’t sure Iris would understand the idea of putting on a disguise, but she got it immediately. “Those are not penguins!” she giggled. She also loves the part where Muktuk drools. The first day we read this, I put her down for her nap and said, “Who loves Iris?”

**Iris:** “Dada, and Mama, and Grandma, and Pops. And Muktuk.”

Currently on hold at the library: Arnie the Doughnut.

Cheddar if you let her

A couple of weeks ago I made a recipe from All About Braising called Grillades and Grits. The grillades are thin-pounded chuck steaks braised in a Louisiana-style spicy sauce based on green pepper, onion, celery, tomato paste, and cayenne.

The grits, however, posed a problem. I’d never made grits before, and I looked all over for them. The book warned sternly against using instant grits, so when I found a box at QFC labeled “quick grits,” I figured that was the same thing. Turns out it’s not, but I learned that too late, so I got some polenta instead.

Polenta with parmesan didn’t sound right for this stew, but I was reluctant to give up cheese in my polenta, so I threw in a handful of grated Tillamook cheddar. It was delicious, and of course I’m not the first person to come up with cheddar polenta, as a Google search will reveal.

The polenta method I used was from Cook’s Illustrated. It’s the only method I know that is relatively low-maintenance but also fast: you cook the polenta on the stove over low heat for half an hour, stirring vigorously every five minutes. That Christopher Kimball, man: how can he be so right about food and so wrong about everything else?

After the successful cheddar polenta, I went and bought the box of quick grits, and Iris and I had some for breakfast today. I put brown sugar and milk on them like I do with oatmeal, which I’m sure will be an affront to grits purists. I suggested to Iris that we put butter on them next time, but she said, “These already buttery.” Which they kind of were.

I can’t say I really understand the difference between grits and polenta. Oh, I know that grits are made from hominy and polenta isn’t, but they take about the same amount of time to cook and taste about the same to me, possibly because I cover up their ephemeral flavor with things like brown sugar and cheddar. I’m complaining, anyway, since polenta and grits are both delicious and dirt-cheap.

Restaurants seem to gravitate toward crunchy fried polenta, which is certainly good, but something I’ve never seen in a restaurant is polenta with ragu, a big bowl of soft polenta with ragu bolognese ladled over it. How can you beat that?

Chou-fleur don’t bother me

Laurie and I had our tenth anniversary last week, and we went out to one of our favorite neighborhood restaurants, Dinette. We had rabbit rillettes with celeriac slaw, French onion soup, and similar homey winter delights.

For her main course, Laurie ordered a gratin of campanelle pasta with sauteed cauliflower and pickled peppers. (I had agnolotti with pork and chard.) It was a hearty portion of pasta and vegetables with bechamel, topped with cheese and breadcrumbs and baked until crunchy on top.

I’m a big fan of sauteed cauliflower, or any cauliflower prepared well, so without asking permission I poked at Laurie’s dish with my fork. (This is as good a reason to stay married for ten years as any.) I withdrew what looked like a large piece of cauliflower and popped it into my mouth. It turned out to be a piece of pasta. I tried again, sure this time that I’d speared the brassica I was after. Pasta again. I don’t think I ever actually got a piece of cauliflower, but I got a good laugh out of it, at least.

Iris is huge in Sweden

This blog is not one to toot its own horn. I did not mention it when we were featured in Affluent Golfer magazine, or profiled on Al-Jazeera. (Okay, neither of those things happened, but there really was once a magazine called Affluent Golfer). But check this out:

> Den Seattle-baserade matskribenten och bloggaren Matthew Amster-Burton hade inte så stora förhoppningar på mejlprogrammet.

Furthermore:

> Amster-Burton har tagit till sig vad han skämtsamt kallar en “webblivsstil”.

The article goes on to use the word “exempelvis.” Citizens of Ballard, enjoy!