Back to the Zak
Tuesday, March 28th, 2006Like politicians, some restaurant critics get a palpable thrill from going negative. English writer A. A. Gill, who never goes anywhere without the word “acerbic” attached to his name, once referred to a Jean-Georges Vongerichten dish as “fishy, liver-filled condoms.” Me, I try to avoid writing negative reviews. I don’t mean to be holier-than-Gill. I certainly […]