Look at happy donut man

Laurie has the week off, so I’ve been tackling many important projects. Today, for example, I needed some new socks, so I went downtown and did some writing, got some noodles at Noodle Zone, bought some shirts for Iris, and came home and realized I forgot the socks. Truly I am a [productivity maven](http://www.43folders.com).

Donut Man

For afternoon snack, however, I was truly productive: I produced homemade donuts. I used the buttermilk cake donut recipe from Baking Illustrated, with a couple of changes. First, because I keep hearing people from the Northeast rave about apple cider donuts, I replaced some of the buttermilk with apple cider. Second, because I have a tub of soft and delectable leaf lard, I used a higher lard-to-shortening ratio than Cook’s recommends. And I used trans fat-free Crisco, so this was practically health food.

We got a cute little donut cutter at Pike Place Market, and it cut out delightful little donuts, much smaller than coffeeshop donuts but bigger than Hostess Donettes. We also used a small biscuit cutter to make some big donut holes. The Thermapen made it easy to monitor the oil temperature. Nobody caught fire.

We dipped some of the donuts in cinnamon sugar and left some plain. They were crunchy, light, and delicious. I couldn’t taste the apple cider, but I drank some cider with the donuts. Next time, however, I need to make them for a crowd, because a lot of cooking fat went to waste. Presumably I won’t go wanting if I put out an APB for donut eaters.

These were almost as good as the best donuts in Seattle, which are available at some of [Tom Douglas](http://www.tomdouglas.com/)’s restaurants (Lola and Dahlia; Palace Kitchen has churros instead). Iris and I have gone for breakfast at Lola a couple of times. The first time she was less than one year old, and she only got a bite of donut and a bottle. The staff was impressed with her patience.

The Douglas donuts are really donut holes, made to order and shaken in a bag with cinnamon-sugar, then served with jam and vanilla mascarpone. Maybe I should serve those at my donut party.

Gold Niblet Award: Green colanders

NibletWhat’s the difference between a strainer and a colander?

I know you’re expecting a hilarious punchline, given the comedic potential of that setup, but actually this is something I’ve always wondered. The fine-mesh bowl with a long handle that’s hanging on my wall is definitely a strainer, and the big perforated stainless-steel bowl gathering dust on top of the Ivar is clearly a colander.

But what do you call these?

The answer is, of course: who cares? I call them the best strainer/colanders in the business, and I paid three whole dollars for mine, whereas you can easily spend $30 for a metal colander which is not superior in any way. These are available at any large Asian grocery or at Sur La Table. You can also order them from Amazon.

Their only drawback is that they’re a bit hard to clean. If you’ve used them to strain anything messier than pasta water, you’ll have to blow a bunch of dishwasher space, or get out your jumbo sized can of elbow grease (or, if you’re all out of elbow grease, whoop-ass will do in a pinch). This is no less true of metal colanders, though.

I have it on good authority that the folks at Cook’s Illustrated and Consumer Reports throw an orgy when they’re able to award top honors to the cheapest product in a review lineup. So get happy! And do not drain pasta while naked.

Field trip, Thai style

Today, Iris and I were playing this game where we fill paper grocery bags with toys and take them to an imaginary destination such as the beach. At one point…

> **Me:** Let’s go to Thailand.

> **Iris:** Here we are Thailand! Iris want to eat some animal cookies and larb.

I mock you with my macchiato pants

Our QFC supermarket is pretty good about free samples. Occasionally they’ve done samples of dry-aged steak or flank steak in kalbi marinade, which is pretty tasty. Sometimes the Aidells sausage rep comes in and offers four different kinds of sausage. Clearly I hang around the meat market a lot. Sometimes they have cookie samples, and those are unmanned, so no one glares like they do if you accidentally walk past the steak a third time.

Today I was shopping and heard an exciting announcement over the PA system. “Come to the Starbucks to try a free sample of our new Marble Mocha Macchiato.” I made a beeline for the Starbucks counter.

Now, I try not to be one of those guys, the kind who complain that “biscotti” is plural and technically you are eating a *biscotto.*

When it comes to the macchiato, however, I’m putting on the pedant hat, because the macchiato is worth defending. It’s a perfect drink, a guaranteed smile in a demitasse cup–when it’s made right, at least. Seattle’s top espresso bars–such as Vivace, Zoka, Hines, and Victrola–take special pride in their macchiato.

Here’s how you make one. Pull a double shot of espresso. Add about an ounce and a half of steamed whole milk (an amount equal in volume to the espresso shot), making a design with the milk if you have the skills. Drink within thirty seconds. A shot of espresso topped with foamed milk may also legitimately be called a macchiato, but it’s not my preferred style, because I think the foam just gets lost. There’s no such thing as a large macchiato.

Here’s how you make a Marble Mocha Macchiato. Blend steamed milk with white chocolate. Add a shot of espresso. Top with chocolate syrup. Available in tall, grande, and venti sizes, all of which suck.

Of course, screwing with the word “macchiato” is nothing new for Starbucks, which generally uses the term to mean a latte with caramel syrup. Other chains have copied this usage. Once I went into a Seattle’s Best Coffee and ordered a macchiato. When I realized the barista was putting caramel into my cup, I said, “Sorry, I’d just like a regular macchiato please, not caramel.”

“We don’t really have the stuff here to make a regular macchiato,” she replied.

I don’t believe Starbucks is evil, but sometimes the mermaid carries a pitchfork. Here’s why I tolerate and sometimes even support them. Today in some small American city, a Starbucks is opening. The kids in the neighborhood will start lining up for vanilla lattes and caramel macchiatos. The vast majority of them will be satisfied with their overpriced dessert drinks.

But a couple of kids will try a shot of espresso. It won’t be good, but it will be better than any coffee they’ve had before. They’ll wonder if they could make better espresso at home. They’ll save up an espresso machine and find that they make better coffee than Starbucks on their first try. They’ll visit a site like [CoffeeGeek](http://www.coffeegeek.com/) and learn about latte art. They will make a macchiato, and it will be religious experience. They’ll travel to Italy or Seattle to train with a master like David Schomer or Phuong Tran.

When they get home, they’ll open their own shop in a niche where Starbucks can’t compete. They’ll play loud punk rock and sell FUCK CORPORATE GROUNDS shirts. They’ll serve microbrews alongside the macchiatos. They’ll sell Fair Trade coffee and give away wireless Internet. And above all, they’ll make the kind of drinks that can only be pulled by trained professionals.

It’s not a fantasy. It happens in Seattle all the time. For every indie shop that has been put out of business by Starbucks (and I don’t deny that it happens), there are three others than have come into being, often in neighborhoods that would have been dismissed as too poor or uncool for specialty coffee before Starbucks stepped in and created the market.

It’s easy to cop a holier-than-thou attitude about people dropping $3 on big cups of hot milk, but behind the 20-ounce latte is something beautiful and real. Its name is macchiato.