Monthly Archives: September 2006

The littlest meatball

The other night, after Ants on a Tree, we had some leftover Samish Bay ground pork. Only half a pound, though. Not enough for a reasonable quantity of larb. Spaghetti and meatballs seemed like the way to go.

Here’s what I know about meatballs. The less meat you put in them, the better they are. Fillers have a bad name, but they are what makes a meatball great. A meatball without fillers is a puck.

So here’s what I did. I make a scary-looking mush with crustless white bread, yogurt, milk, salt, pepper, oregano, and Parmigiano-Reggiano. (I got the idea of mashing bread with milk from Cook’s Illustrated.) Minced garlic or onion could be good here, too, but I didn’t use any. Then I started spooning the slurry into the pork and stirring it up. I didn’t end up using all of the slurry, but it was more than I expected. You want to put in enough so that the meatballs will hold their shape, but just barely. I made miniature meatballs, about an inch in diameter.

I browned the meatballs in olive oil, drained them, and finished simmering them in tomato sauce. With spaghetti, it was the perfect amount for the three of us, and Iris ate numerous meatballs. First, though, she looked at her plate, where I had carefully cut a meatball into bites for her, and said, “But where is my meatball?” She sounded just like Frances.

Yes, we know, you are perfectly capable of taking apart your own meatball.

Saute of the day

In the kitchen, my motto is:

*When in doubt, saute it.*

It’s not that I’m prejudiced against frying, steaming, microwaving, roasting, or braising. Okay, I am prejudiced against steaming. But sauteing just feels the most like cooking. There’s no good reason for this–it’s not like it’s the primal form of cooking, although imagining cavepeople trying to cram hunks of mastodon carcass into 10-inch All-Clad skillets on their camp stoves is pretty funny. Probably it’s overexposure to cooking shows.

Anyway, my esteem for sauteing goes double when vegetables are involved. Most good vegetable preparations start with a little butter and a little browning. Really good ones start with a lot of butter and a lot of browning. Olive oil is good, too.

Here’s what I made tonight to go with burgers.

**Sauteed Fennel and Radicchio**

Heat some butter and olive oil in a skillet over medium-high. Add peeled and quartered shallots and a handful of sliced fennel. Season with salt, pepper, and dried thyme (an herb that I reflexively couple with fennel ever since Cousin Wendy made it that way a few years ago). I wanted red onions rather than shallots, but the red onion I brought home turned out to be moldy as hell. Cook a few minutes, until the vegetables are getting nicely browned. Add a head of sliced radicchio and another sprinkle of salt. Continue cooking until the radicchio is good and wilted. Turn off the heat, cover, and let sit and soften up for a couple of minutes before serving.

The crab shack

Yesterday we sailed across the choppy waters of Elliott Bay on the water taxi. We alighted in West Seattle by a rocky beach where divers were practicing. I thought this was totally cool. Iris was not so interested. She was busy “skipping rocks”–that is, throwing them into the water. We found a cool rock with four barnacles on it. Iris wanted to throw it in. I wanted to take it home. I prevailed, but only after promising that next time we came to this beach, we could bring the rock back with us and throw it in.

Incidentally, this beach is a gold mine of skipping rocks.

Laurie, who had read a review in the Seattle Times, suggested we have lunch at the restaurant just off the pier where you disembark the water taxi. It’s called Alki Crab and Fish, and it looks like a terrible place. See, here it is:

Crab Shack

It’s that flat building that you can see through the bars of the boat. Here’s what it doesn’t have going for it:

* It has a gift shop.
* It has a great view.
* They advertise on the water taxi.
* It specializes in fried seafood combos, the kind where they fry up a cross-section of sea life.

If I owned a place like this, I’d put up a combo of fried things that aren’t actually edible, just to see who would order it. The #4: Fried nudibranch, sea squirt, anemone, and coral. With french fries.

You can see the punchline coming here: Alki Crab and Fish is not bad at all. We did get a fried combo, with shrimp, clams, calamari, halibut, and fries. The halibut is fresh. The rest isn’t, but with the exception of the overly processed calamari, everything was tasty and well fried. Iris actually liked the clam strips better than the french fries. We also had a cup of clam chowder (good, but I like homestyle chowder better than thick restaurant chowder) and an insanely meaty crab cocktail.

They also have ice cream, including “new and improved” Dreyer’s Butterfinger flavor, which really was good–not as good as Baskin-Robbins Peanut Butter and Chocolate, but close.

I did have some ill effects from our outing, but it had nothing to do with the seafood. My arm is sore from skipping rocks. Iris said, “You could put that arm in my bath and it’ll feel better in ONE MINUTE.”

**Alki Crab and Fish**
1660 Harbor Ave SW
Seattle, WA 98146
(206) 953-0237

Retirement is sweet

The review of Paseo in today’s Seattle Times is my last.

I’ve been reviewing for the Times since 2001. It’s been a treat, and I would say that even if it weren’t required by the restaurant critic code of conduct, which says that you can never complain about being a restaurant critic. If your friend was dating a supermodel, would you have time to listen to them complain about the supermodel’s bad habits? You see my point.

I’m quitting to spend more time writing about home cooking and related topics, and because ever since Iris came along, being home for dinner has taken on greater importance. My byline won’t be disappearing from the Times, by any means. For several years I’ve been writing for the paper’s Sunday magazine, Pacific Northwest, but now I’ll be appearing there close to once a month.

Because I am a geek, I made a spreadsheet of all my reviews and calculated a few statistics. The majority of my reviews were “Dining Deals,” where I assigned a rating of Recommended or Not Recommended. But for the purposes of geeking out more fully, I went back through and reclassified a few as Raves.

**MAMSTER’S INDEX**

Total number of reviews: **95**

Raves: **13** (14%)
Recommended: **71** (75%)
Not Recommended: **11** (12%)

Places that I know to be out of business: **26** (27%)
Number of times I reviewed a restaurant that replaced another restaurant I reviewed: **4**

Raves given to Asian restaurants: **10**
Raves given to non-Asian restaurants: **3** (two American, one Cuban)

Those rave reviews went to:

* Ezo (closed)
* China Village
* Dahlia Bakery
* Mandalay Cafe (closed)
* Blue Willow Tea Room (closed)
* Akasaka
* May
* Maekawa Bar
* Dinette
* Green Leaf
* Salima
* Jack’s Tapas
* Paseo

Number one favorite: **Dinette**
Runners-up: **Green Leaf, Ezo, May**

Finally, now that I’m no longer a restaurant critic, I’m allowed to have my likeness appear in the media.

Headshot
(photo by [Lara Ferroni](http://www.cookbook411.com))