Wok breath
In our CSA box this week was a note that read, approximately: “We were unable to supply green cabbage this week. We have replaced it with savoy cabbage.” Every time I get one of these notes, I amuse myself by imagining the person who gets really upset by produce substitutions. “Savoy cabbage? My week is RUINED.” Then he punches an eggplant.
Last week’s New York Times food section featured a mouthwatering article about Chinese noodles, featuring Grace Young, the wok doctor, queen of the stir-fry, and author of Breath of a Wok. You’ll want to read the whole article, but I was particularly struck by this part:
Like Ms. Young, [Susur Lee] adds soy sauce to the wok only at the end of cooking, swirling it around the hot rim of the pan where it evaporates and then gets sucked, smoky flavor and all, into the noodles.
(Incidentally, if you happen to be a food writer and have never had the pleasure of interviewing Susur Lee, contrive a reason to do it, because he has an authoritative baritone you’ll want to listen to all day, and he’s quotable as heck.)
As for the savoy cabbage, I knew I wanted to infuse it with the smoky essence of soy sauce. So I heated up my wok, whose patina is coming along nicely (thanks, Grace!). Really heated it, I mean: over high heat until smoke was rising from the dry pan. I poured in some peanut oil and then half the head of cabbage, chopped. The cabbage in contact with the pan started to smoke and blacken immediately. Had I ruined the dish? Not hardly. I sprinkled in some salt and kept cooking, stirring occasionally (one of the keys to home stir-frying is less stirring, more frying). When the cabbage seemed almost done (crisp-tender), I added some minced scallions and garlic, stirred until fragrant, then drizzled soy sauce around the edge of the wok as instructed. It steamed and hissed. The dish was done.
There are only two types of people who should make this dish: those who are victims of a cabbage substitution, and those who are not. I’m starting a list of ingredients that are at their best when you char the hell out of them. So far I’ve got:
- Cabbage
- Octopus
- Wild mushrooms
What else?
Related posts:
Comment by debbie koenig
Marshmallows are vastly improved by charring. But probably not so much in a wok.
Posted on January 31, 2011 at 12:20 pm
Comment by Camille
Charred within an inch of its life is the only way I will ever eat a bell pepper.
Posted on January 31, 2011 at 12:33 pm
Comment by caleb
you are giving me great ideas for what to do with our brand new kitchen exhaust fan!
i can’t say they are at their best, but anything in the brassica family tastes great when it is charred - i’m thinking brussel sprouts and broccoli but especially those tender broccoli leaves that i hope come with your csa.
but since when did you cook with a wok?
Posted on January 31, 2011 at 1:40 pm
Comment by mamster
Since Grace Young shamed me into it. :)
Posted on January 31, 2011 at 2:59 pm
Comment by Kathleen McDade
Hot dogs and marshmallows, says the summer camp girl.
Posted on February 1, 2011 at 8:48 am
Comment by Miss K
We have a wok that was a gift from my aunt (superior to the giant scroll-holder necklace from a few years prior), and I have used it, but with limited success. Our fried rice always comes out too greasy. Any thoughts/links that you recommend?
PS I have to say that I was super-pumped that a REAL FOOD WRITER commented on my ES blog post.
Posted on February 1, 2011 at 9:36 am
Comment by mamster
I like my fried rice greasy! But I did write a column about fried rice. What kind of rice are you using? I find that Japanese-style (medium- or especially short-grain) rice fries best. I use about 2 or 3 tablespoons of oil for 1.5 cups of rice.
Posted on February 1, 2011 at 10:34 am
Comment by Emma
I just stumbled across your blog and couldn’t be happier to have a new addition to my daily reading.
To answer your question: carrots! Especially if grilled/broiled with soy sauce, mirin, and sugar.
Posted on February 3, 2011 at 8:56 pm
Comment by mamster
Hi, Emma. I am loving your blog. It’s been way too long since I’ve made oyakodon.
Posted on February 3, 2011 at 10:23 pm
Comment by Emma
Why thank you! If you try a recipe, please do leave a comment and let me know what you think.
Posted on February 5, 2011 at 7:02 pm
Comment by lynh
I love charred fennel and endive. also portabello, but you already have that under your umbrella of ‘shrooms.
Posted on February 6, 2011 at 3:17 pm
Comment by Sam at Broke and Chic
What an awesome blog.
I think that bread charred under bruschetta is divine…although that’s not for a wok. Also asparagus is amazing charred. Ash around cheese is such a great taste that I always wondered if there was a way to re-create that effect? Maybe with a creme brulee torch?
Posted on February 8, 2011 at 8:44 am
Comment by Moose
Hi Mamster! Sorry haven’t had a chance to catch up on your blog lately. Are you guys back in the US? I just had to let you know about a new baby octopus dish I just had a Myong Ga Soon Tofu (a.k.a. MG Tofu House). It’s the best dish I’ve had in a very long time and I think you love spicy squid stir fry. Anyways, let me describe the dish for you: It’s a table top dish, shallow stone hot pot, spicy mix of baby octobpus, fatty pork (sam gyup sar), veggies. The sauce is just amazing. Then leave some behind (don’t eat it all, especially the sauce) because if you request, they will add rice, sliced kimchee, and cabbage with sesame oil to the left-overs and fry it up. OMG!! You must eat this. Seriously. Best regards.
Posted on February 22, 2011 at 11:40 am
Comment by Moose
oh & I should let you know this dish is only available on the weekends (Fri/Sat/Sun nights).
Posted on February 22, 2011 at 11:57 am